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Glossary of Patented Complexes and Active Ingredients

4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
An effective UV filter used in sunscreens.
See also: UV filters

Acacia senegal gum
Has soothing and anti-inflammatory action. May also be used a vegetable-based thickening agent.

Acelora Extract
Derived from the Barbados cherry fruit. An antioxidant and moisturizer. Extract contains a high concentration of vitamin C.
See also: Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)

Acne Plus®
A patented liposome-based delivery system containing Sodium Salicylate, Lecithin and Triclosan. Reduces the risk of acne flare-ups, promotes normal keratinization, lightens skin discolorations and improves the overall condition of thick, oily, complexions with blemishes, uneven skin tone and/or discoloration due to sun damage.

Affinispheres®
Innovative micro-capsules that contain a seboregulator, which is released in differing amounts depending of the skin's changing lipid layer. They help regulate sebum secretion and reduce the appearance of blemishes.

Akorex®
A stable oil obtained from plants of the Brassica family. Especially rich in natural sterols, it has soothing and anti-inflammatory action comparable to steroids (hydrocortisone) without the negative side effects.
See also: Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

Albiprotect™
Synergistic complex containing arbutin and sorrel extract, which delicately reduces skin discoloration (signs of photo-aging).

Aleuritic acid
Trihydroxy-palmitic acid. Strengthens skin's protective barrier. Limits TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) and deeply hydrates the epidermis. A free-radical scavenger.

Alfalfa
Has decongestant and antioxidant properties.

Algae Extract
Prevents blemishes and repairs the damage caused by oily, acne-prone skin. Helps control seborrhea and inhibits the inflammation process. Algae extract inhibits lipase, preventing the breakdown of fats, which reduces the production of free fatty acids, which in large concentrations can cause inflammation. In addition, the extract accelerates healing and maintains a watertight epidermal barrier.
References: See also specific algae name.

Algin
Sodium alginate, a purified carbohydrate extracted from brown algae species and used as a stabilizing colloid in numerous pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and foods.

Allantoin
Extracted from Comfrey root. It is found in all tissues in which energetic growth and division of cells is taking place. It stimulates cell growth and provides soothing and skin softening qualities. Helps remove areas of thick, rough skin and cracks in the epidermis. It possesses anti-irritant and soothing qualities, making it particularly suited for use in products recommended for delicate or irritated skin.

Almond oil (Sweet)
Belongs to the oldest of cosmetic oils. Derived from common almond nuts (Prunus dulcis), the main active substances are olein, linoleic acid and glycerides. They soften the epidermis and strengthen the protective lipid barrier of the skin. The high content of linoleic acid is crucial because it plays an important role in the function of the intercellular cement of the epidermal horny layer. Almond oil is used for care of dry, sensitive skin prone to irritations, because of its lubricating, softening and smoothing properties.

Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadenis)
The most widely used plant extract in skin care products. It dramatically increases circulation, provides protection against bacteria and reduces inflammation. Commonly used to treat burns (thermal and UV), blisters, wounds and psoriasis. Has a cooling effect on the skin.

Althaea (Officinallis) Root Extract
Latin for the marshmallow plant.
See also: Mallow (Malva silvestris)

Anise (Pimpinella Anisum) Seed Extract
Has anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties.

Apple Phytoestrogens™
An apple extract that acts similarly to natural estrogens. Possesses very good anti-wrinkle properties.
See also: Apple Seed oil (Pyrus malus)

Apple Seed oil (Pyrus malus)
Regenerates skin cells and smooths away wrinkles. Helps initiate skin's renewal processes, stimulates DNA and RNA regeneration and promotes collagen synthesis.

Applelift®
A patented complex which contains a synergistic blend of Apple Seed oil, Retinol and Sweet Almond proteins. Retinol and Apple Seed oil regenerate skin cells and smooth away wrinkles. Sweet Almond proteins immediately tone flabby skin.

Aquaprotect®
A synergistic complex that ensures cells have the necessary hydration for proper functioning. Formulated with a unique blend of ingredients that limit Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Based on two-phase action: first, it restores proper moisture balance at the cellular level; second, it protects the skin against water loss, ensuring long-lasting hydration of the skin.

Aquaradical CEQ10®
Patented complex which contains synergistically active ingredients including vitamins C and E, CoEnzyme Q10, D-Panthenol and Grape Leaf extract. Provides antioxidant protection and delays premature aging. Stimulates the metabolism of mature skin.

AquaVital™
A moisturizing complex which, absorbs and retains water in the skin It consists of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), glycerin, vitamin E, provitamin B5 and polysacchardies.

Arbutin
Natural, plant hydroquinone (one of the most effective skin-lightening agents). This substance is derived in its pure form from Bearberry (Arctostaphylosu uva ursi), which has long been used in folk cosmetics. Use of the isolated, natural substance guarantees considerably better lightening effect than the plant extract alone. The mechanism of action is based on inhibiting excess biosynthesis of melanin, a natural skin pigment, as well as stimulating its breakdown in the stratum corneum.

Arnica Extract (Arnica montana)
A cosmetic raw material, rich in active substances, including flavonoids and essential oils. Arnica extract is used in products for skin with dilated capillaries. It is readily absorbed by the skin and strengthens capillary walls and reduces erythema. Arnica extract also possesses anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Aromine®
A rich and versatile regenerating blend of essential oils. Soothes inflammation, stimulates cell renewal, regulates water-lipid management, smooths, refreshes, relaxes subcutaneous muscles and tightens the skin. Skin regains its energy with immediate, visible effects.

ASC III (Amplifier of Synthesis of Collagen III)
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline. A collagen biosynthesis activator capable of stimulating collagen III. Stimulates cellular memory and unblocks the arrested fiber synthesis process which results in new collagen fibers replacing older collagen fibers. New collagen regains its primary function of storing water, leading to smoother skin and visibly less wrinkles. The correct structure of the entire skin support system is restored which significantly improves tone and suppleness of the skin.
References: ASC III is a registered trademark of Merck Pharmaceuticals.

ASC III Plus®
A synergistic complex of substances that help improve skin's elasticity. Contains Amplifier of Synthesis of Collagen III, which restores memory to the skin for independent collagen III synthesis.
See also: ASC III (Amplifier of Synthesis of Collagen III)

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Brown algae. An algae species found in the sea near the coast of France. Combined with other algae extracts it has anti-irritant properties. They also reduce the levels of VEGF - a factor present in the skin, which stimulates the growth and dilation of tiny blood vessels. VEGF levels are sometimes too high and problems with dilated capillaries and very sensitive, red skin are a result.
See also: Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Ascorbic acid
A form of vitamin C that has antioxidant properties.
See also: Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)

Ascorbyl Palmitate
A stable, non-toxic antioxidant and preservative.
See also: Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

See also: Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)

Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Red algae. An algae species found in the sea near the coast of France. Combined with other algae extracts it has anti-irritant properties. They also reduce the levels of VEGF - a factor present in the skin, which stimulates the growth and dilation of tiny blood vessels. VEGF levels are sometimes too high and problems with dilated capillaries and very sensitive, red skin are a result.
See also: Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Atelocollagen
A marine-derived substance with properties and action similar to collagen. It covers the skin with a miniature network of proteins that protect the epidermis and help restore proper skin function. Binds moisture and lipophilic substances and then selectively releases them to lower TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Makes skin smooth and elastic.

Avocado oil
Used in skin care products as an emollient and carrier of other active ingredients. More effective than any of the natural oils used in skin care products. Rich in vitamins A, E, K and PP as well as chlorophyll and Essential Fatty Acids (EFA). Recommended for dry, damaged skin, because it provides excellent hydration and lubrication. Highly compatible with fatty substances contained in the skin, giving it excellent lubrication properties. The oil composition is similar to lipids found in the skin, which accounts for its high tolerance. Avocado oil provides some natural sunlight filters.

Azelaic acid
(Azelosome). Azelaic acid stabilized in liposomes. Regulates sebum secretion, diminishes shiny skin, exfoliates, cleanses pores and has anti-inflammatory properties. Used to treat mild to moderate acne. It works in part, by stopping the proliferation of bacteria on the skin's surface, which contributes to acne blemishes. Azelaic acid also reduces acne by cleansing debris and impurities from pores. Lightens discolorations by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for melanin production.

Babassu (Orbignya Oleifera) Seed Oil
It has soothing and skin smoothing properties. It nourishes the skin and helps it to stay moisturized.

Bacillus Ferment
An enzymatic protein derived from fermenting, Bacillus subtilis, a widespread microorganism that accelerates and enhances the course of chemical reactions within the skin. Delicately exfoliates dead skin cells.
See also: Keratolytic Enzyme

Bactrine®
Patented complex that has strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, minimizes enlarged pores and facilitates the removal of blackheads.

Balm Mint (Melissa officinalis)
Has calming, soothing, healing, and antibacterial properties.

Bamboo (Bambusa Vulgaris)
A component of Hydrocomplex D®, which is a blend of three Asian extracts that includes lotus and water lily. Stimulates cellular regeneration and regulates skin hydration.

Barley (Hordeum distichon)
Barley extract contains hordein, which helps eliminate toxins and cellular waste. Diminishes swelling and puffiness. Used in slimming and anti-cellulite products.

Beeswax (Cera alba)
A hypoallergenic emulsifier and antioxidant. Softens skin and forms a network that traps moisture in the epidermis.

Benzophenone-4
An anti-photooxidant and an FDA approved chemical sunscreen which absorbs UVA rays.

Bergamot oil
An essential oil that has antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Scent improves mood, relieves stress and relaxes nervous tension.

Beta-carotene
A natural yellow plant-coloring agent that belongs to the carotenoid group. Capable of absorbing UV radiation. Inhibits free-radicals. Beta-carotene in the skin is transformed into vitamin A (Retinol) as a result of enzymatic oxidation.

Betaine
A natural amino acid, with moisturizing action and gently acting surfactants. It is a delicate, natural cleansing agent. Soothes the effect of harsh detergents.

BetaMANGO®
Patented complex of plant derived ingredients including Betaine and Mango wax. Won't irritate skin or damage its protective lipid mantle. Creates a protective barrier that leaves skin perfectly smooth and maintains skin's proper moisture level.

BHA
A powerful antioxidant. Neutralizes free-radicals that lead to premature aging. Not to be confused with Beta Hydroxy Acids.

BHT
A powerful antioxidant. Neutralizes free-radicals that lead to premature aging.

Bilberry (Vaccinium Myrtillus)
Bilberry extract is rich in pectins, antocyans, vitamins A, C, B and PP as well as fruit acids and mineral salts. Attributed with antibacterial, antiseptic, softening and moisturizing properties. Antocyans help seal capillaries, diminish their permeabilty and react with collagen helping to increase the density of connective tissue.

Bio-Ecolia
Oligosaccharide derived from corn. Stabilizes the natural, beneficial bacterial floral and counteracts the growth of harmful bacteria. Helps prevent irritations. Restores the natural biological balance of the skin, disturbed by the use of detergents and environmental factors.

Biokeratike®
Patented complex that regulates sebum secretion, accelerates healing of micro-injuries and improves circulation.

Biotin

See also: Vitamin H (Biotin)

Bioxygen®
A synergistic complex of ingredients that accelerate the assimilation of oxygen throughout skin cells. Accelerates metabolism, enhancing elimination of toxins from the skin.

Bisabolol
Found in an essential oil derived from chamomile. Reduces inflammation and has a soothing effect on the skin and mucous membranes. Assists in the healing of irritated skin and inhibits irritations.
See also: Chamomile

Black Currant Seed oil (Ribes nigrum)
A rich source of Gamma Linolenic acid and other EFAs. Restores the acid-water-lipid balance of the epidermis. Normalizes proper skin function altered by the aging process and environmental influences. Has anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties.
See also: Gamma Linolenic acid

Black Wattle (Acacia Decurrens) Flower Wax
Has anti-inflammatory properties.

Blue Lotus (Nymphaea Caerulea)
Plant extract which has strong moisturizing properties.

Blue Retinol™
An algae extract which has properties very similar to retinol. It stimulates skin cells' growth and proliferation, but unlike retinol, it is very gentle to the skin and much less likely to cause irritation. The ingredient itself is a light blue color, hence the name Blue Retinol.

Burdock (Arctium lappa) Extract
The extract is derived from the plant root. Rich in minerals, sugars, inulin, tannins and sterols. Burdock extract possesses bactericidal and anti-mycotic properties. Reduces seborrhea, normalizes sebum secretion and regulates bacterial flora.

Butchersbroom Extract
An evergreen found in the Mediterranean area. Extract reduces erythema and swelling. Protects vessel wall elasticity and has anti-inflammatory properties.

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
A synthetic UV filter that protects the skin from a broad spectrum of UVA rays. Does not show photosensitizing potential. Sometimes refered to as Avobenzone or Parsol 1789.
See also: UVA filters

Cactus (Agave risida) Extract
Composed mainly of flavonoids, amino acids, polysaccharides and natural steroidal saponins. Used in skin care products to soothe irritations, minor burns, reduce inflammation and disinfect.

Caffeine
Helps eliminate accumulated fluids and toxins. Accelerates lipolysis. Improves the tone and resilience of the skin.

Calminella®
Patented complex which smooths and relaxes the skin and provides immediate calming and anti-inflammatory action.

Camellia sinensis

See also: Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) Extract

Canola oil
A natural, plant lipid and antioxidant derived from rapeseed oil that helps repair skin's natural protective barrier.

Carnitine

See also: L-Carnitine

CaroSOME™
An innovative, ingredient complex that visibly improves the color of dull, ashen skin.

Carrot (Daucus Carota sativa) Oil
Derived from the plant root, it is used as an emollient and has antioxidant properties.

Castor oil
A non-irritating oil, derived from Ricinus communis seeds. Has water-binding properties and can transport other active ingredients into the epidermis. Particularly helpful for dry skin.

Centella asiatica
Stimulates production of collagen, fibronectic and protoglicans. Strengthens the structure of skin, making it firmer and more resilient. Protects capillary walls and increases skin's elasticity. Helps reduce cellulite and stretch marks.
See also: Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica)

Ceramide 6-II
One of the elements of an anti-wrinkle complex. Ceramide II is an important component of the intercellular cement and regulates the process of desquamation (the natural shedding of skin cells).
See also: Ceramides

Ceramide II
Has skin nourishing properties and is also necessary for normal exfoliation of dead skin cells.
See also: Ceramide 6-II

Ceramide III
One of the elements of the lipid mantle. With age, skin loses the natural ability to produce ceramides. Ceramide III is essential for proper lubrication and maintaining skin's protective barrier.
See also: Ceramides

Ceramides
Sphingolipids have a key role in the structure of the epidermis. Ceramides are the main ingredients in the intercellular cement, comprising about 40% of cement lipids. They are responsible for the softness and suppleness of the skin. If there is a deficiency in ceramides, the skin becomes dry and prone to irritations. Ceramides supplied from skin care products limit Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), nourish and smooth the skin and they can also slightly reduce the visibility of wrinkles. There are several types of these molecules, each of when is differentiated by a number (e.g. Ceramide I, II, III). They differ slightly in their structure and various plants are a supply of the lipids containing ceramides. Ceramides are also comprised of EFA (Essential Fatty Acids).
See also: Essential Fatty Acids (EFA)

Chamomile
Extract from Chamomile flowers contains essential oils, flavonoids, carotenes and Bisabolol. Heals skin irritations, protects against redness and allergic reactions. An anti-inflammatory.
See also: Bisabolol

Chitosan
A polysaccharide derived from marine sources, it creates a protective film on the skin and helps in moisture retention. Possess anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Chlorella (Chorella pyrenoidosa)
Chlorella is a form of unicellular Green Algae found in still, fresh water; soil, or bark of trees. Chlorella is composed of about 40-60% proteins, and is the highest source of chlorophyll in the plant world. Accelerates wound healing, and is an antioxidant and emollient.
See also: Algae Extract

Chlorophyll
Green plant pigment necessary for the photosynthesis process in plants. Chlorophyll accelerates the regeneration of the epidermis, soothes minor irritations and improves blood supply to the skin for nourishment and oxygenation.

Cholesterol
Moisturizer, emollient and emulsifier present in skin lipids and sebum. Non-comedogenic.

Chondrus cripsus (Carrageenan)
Red Algae (Seaweed extract). Rich in polysaccharides and micro and macroelements including manganese, zinc, calcium and magnesium. Hydrates, conditions and soothes the skin.
See also: Algae Extract

CI 75810
Designation for the natural green colorant chlorophyll.
See also: Chlorophyll

Cinnamon Tree (Cinnamomum cassia) Bark Oil
Gently warms the skin, improves circulation and its pleasant fragrance soothes both the body and mind.

Citric acid
An astringent and antioxidant; a substance found in all living organisms and an important component in the metabolic transformations that occur in the Krebs Cycle. Widely used in products to enhance the action of other active ingredients.
See also: Lemon Juice (Citrus medica limonum)

Clintonia borealis

See also: Lily Extract (Clintonia borealis)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Derived from Coconut oil. An effective surfactant used in cleansers, shower gels, etc. It provides a nice foaming action and is non-irritating to the skin.
See also: Betaine

Cocoa Butter
Derived from cocoa beans, it smoothes the skin and speeds the tanning process. It also helps to prevent skin drying after sun exposure.

Coco-Glucoside
A non-ionized mild detergent and skin conditioner.

Codium tomentosum (Velvet horn)
Green Algae extract. Regulates water distribution within the skin. Rich source of glucuronic acid. Hydrates the epidermis and protects skin from the damaging effects of a dry environment.
See also: Algae Extract

Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone)
A catalyst necessary for life. Occurs throughout the body and is necessary for the heart to function. Initiates and accelerates biochemical reactions within the skin. Participates in the most important cycle of metabolic transformations, the Krebs Cycle. Its highest concentration is found in the liver, heart and kidneys. Up to about age 25 it is produced in sufficient quantities, but after this age, production starts to decline. Ubiquinone is a powerful free-radical scavenger, which helps delay the aging process. (Some sources claim it is 50 times more effective than vitamin E) It also performs a key role in the detoxification process. It is very beneficial to supply Coenzyme Q10 to the skin. Products containing Ubiquinone increase suppleness of the skin, producing a 'youthful' look. Clinical research has confirmed that preparations with this compound used on the skin for several weeks results in: visible decreases in small wrinkles, increased hydration and elasticity of the skin, lightening of discolorations, and smoothing of deep wrinkles. Topical application of Ubiquinone stimulates cellular respiration, which enhances cellular metabolism.

Coffee Bean (Coffea arabica) Extract
Has antioxidant properties. Extract has a high caffeine content that promotes lipolysis and the removal of excess fluids.
See also: Caffeine

Collagenage™
A complex of soy proteins, rice proteins and a peptide derived from yeast. It inhibits the degradation of collagen fibers and strengthens the intracellular matrix. Besides firming the skin, it also strengthens the walls of capillaries and improves microcirculation, which significantly reduces dark circles and puffiness around the eyes.

Colloidal Kaolin Clay
Absorbs excess oil produced by sebaceous glands and other impurities that accumulate on the skin's surface and in pores. Used in masks, it visibly contracts enlarged pores, tightens and smoothes the skin.

Comfrey root

See also: Allantoin

Copper
Trace ingredient necessary for proper growth and functioning of organisms. Present in many biologically active compounds, such as enzymes, enzyme activators and vitamins. Both its excess as well as insufficiency negatively impacts the body. In skin care products, copper ions regulate sebaceous gland activity and act as a catalyst to restore proper cell keratinization. Copper also plays a role in the formation of collagen. Copper ions are readily absorbed by the skin and are very important in acne prevention.
See also: Copper Gluconate

Copper Gluconate
A component of SOD (Superoxide Dimutase), a powerful antioxidant. Helps in the formation of collagen and elastin. Regulates sebaceous gland activity. Aids in wound healing.
See also: Copper

Corn Sprouts (Zea mays)
Possesses strong regenerative and nutritive properties. In terms of composition and action, they are a replacement for animal placenta.

Corn starch
Soothes irritated skin and absorbs excess oil from the surface of the skin.

Cotton (Gossypium) Seed Oil
Helps skin maintain proper moisture level and hydrates and softens.

CottonPro™
A complex based on cotton oil, which reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), improves the skin barrier functions, nourishes and moisturizes the skin.

Crithmum maritimum

See also: Samphire (Crithmum maritimum)

Cucumber
Extract has moisturizing, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties. Contains minerals and amino acids that strengthen the skin's acid mantle. Delicately lightens the complexion.

Cucurbita Pepino

See also: Pumpkin Proteins

Cyanocobalamin
Vitamin B12. It is necessary in every cell for protein synthesis, cell structure repair and maintenance. It is also used in the chemical reactions leading to the production of energy from carbohydrates. In a cosmetic, cyanocobalamin has energizing and stimulating properties. It is also called an 'anti-stress vitamin', since it helps skin cells survive in difficult conditions eg. when exposed to UV rays and free radicals.

Cypress Cone Extract
Possesses anti-inflammatory and refreshing properties. Helps stimulate fibroblast cell growth.

DHA
Dihydroxyacetone. Used as a self-tanning agent. It reacts with naturally occurring amino acids within the skin to give the epidermis a tanned appearance. Also provides minimal UV protection.

Dill
Extract is rich in vitamin C, beta-carotene and B group vitamins. Has a soothing and calming effect on skin.

Diosmine
May also be referred to as Disomin. A synthetic flavonoid that increases capillary wall elasticity and decreases permeability. Has anti-inflammatory action and improves blood vessel tone. Inhibits free-radicals.

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

See also: ASC III (Amplifier of Synthesis of Collagen III)

Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate
Plays an important role in biochemical processes such as synthesis of nucleic acids and proteins. Acts as a skin conditioner, helps energize cells and restores metabolic function.

DNA
Deoxyribonucleic acid. Present in every living cell of an organism. It is a moisturizing and nutritive agent readily absorbed and assimilated by the epidermis. DNA prevents moisture loss and regenerates dry, damaged skin caused by sun exposure and environmental factors. It protects the skin against the harmful effects of the sun.

DNAstil®
Patented complex that promotes long-lasting improvement of moisture level and increases oxygenation of the epidermis

D-Panthenol
A natural precursor of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid), present in every living tissue. Vitamin B5 cannot be absorbed through the horny layer of the epidermis. For this reason D-panthenol, its provitamin is used in topical creams (the letter 'D' refers to its isometric form. Panthenol occurs in two isometric forms D and L, but only D is biologically active). D-panthenol readily penetrates and is absorbed by the deepest layers of the epidermis. It is a strong growth stimulator and enhances renewal of cells, both in the epidermis and the dermis. Applied to the skin it increases metabolic energy and significantly accelerates the synthesis of lipids and proteins. It possesses strong wound healing effects for different types of skin and mucous membranes. It soothes irritations caused by allergens in the environment.

Duoprocess™
A unique technology based on the synergistic effects of hydration and cell stimulation to provide maximum anti-aging results. Research has shown that cells must be properly hydrated to utilize active ingredients efficiently.

Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea)
Extracted from the purple coneflower plant. A raw material rich in polysaccharides (inulin), and many flavonoids. It has a variety of beneficial properties, the most important of which is immunostimulation, or raising the resistance of the organism. In skin care science, this means increasing the regenerative capacity of the skin and raising its resistance to environmental stressors. In addition, it also exhibits anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiviral properties. Echinacea protects the skin by increasing the cohesiveness of the intercellular cement and by increasing phagocytosis. Anti-inflammatory action of Echinacea is comparable to cortisone, a steroid with strong anti-inflammatory properties, without the negative side effects that often accompany the use of steroids. Echinacea is an invaluable ingredient of modern immunocosmetic products because of its ability to stimulate the skin’s natural defense and regenerative mechanisms.

Elastin
A structural protein that naturally occurs in the dermis. It is similar in structure to collagen, but is found in lower concentrations. Its fibers are unusually elastic contributing to skin's tone and firmness. Over time the content of elastin in the skin declines and it needs to be supplemented by means of topical application. Because elastin is molecularly smaller that collagen, it can penetrate into the upper layers of the epidermis helping to improve moisture and elasticity

Elhibin
Plant-derived ingredient that inhibits certain enzymes that 'tear down' skin's structure. These enzymes are necessary in the normal functioning of skin, but in some cases become overactive which can result in premature aging. Elhibin works to neutralize the overactive enzymes leaving skin firm and younger looking.

Entermorpha compressa
A green marine algae that contains glycosamines, hydroxyproline and polysaccharides. Increases circulation, regenerates and tones the skin.
See also: Algae Extract

Erythrulose
A sugar used as a self-tanning agent. Similar to DHA in its chemical composition, it takes considerably longer than DHA to develop. Erythrulose reacts differently to natural skin tones and the resulting color depends on your particular skin.
See also: DHA

Escin
A compound belonging to the group of triterpene saponins. Escin is extracted from chestnut fruit. It minimizes erythema and helps seal blood vessel walls. It is tolerated well by people that are sensitive to other ingredients used to strengthen capillary walls.
See also: Horse Chestnut

Esculin
A glucoside obtained from horse chestnut extract. Improves circulation and accelerates the removal of excess metabolites. Action is similar to vitamin P.
See also: Horse Chestnut

Essential Fatty Acids (EFA)
Sometimes referred to as vitamin F. Because the body does not produce these, they must be supplied through proper nutrition for normal functioning of the body. These acids perform an important role in the lipid management of the epidermis and sebum production. EFA are necessary precursors for production of prostaglandin, which is a necessary component of the intercellular cement of the horny layer. This group is primarily comprised of acids from the omega-3, omega-6 series, as well as arachidonic acid, linoleic acid and others. They all have water-binding, moisturizing and antioxidant properties.

Essential oils
Plant derived oils that are composed of vitamins, phytohormones, natural antibiotics and antiseptics. Essential oils can have a wide variety of effects depending on the specific oil. Many possess calming, soothing, and stimulating properties. Because essential oils are very fragrant, they are excellent ingredients for aromatherapy products.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
An FDA approved chemical sunscreen with excellent UVB protection and some UVA.
See also: Octyl Methoxycinnamate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate
A mineral UV filter which offers excellent UVB protection.

Extratense®
Patented complex that instantly firms skin, smooths wrinkles, and improves the color of the complexion. It contains active ingredients to improve the oval of the face and firm loose, saggy skin.

Farness
Bacteriostatic compound that does not destroy the natural bacterial flora of the skin, while inhibiting the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria. Extracted from the essential oil of linden tree flowers.
See also: Linden Flower (Tilia cordata) Extract

Fennel
Used to cleanse and detoxify oily, acne-prone skin.

Fenugreek
30% of the Fenugreek seed consists of protein, lecithin and vitamins that are valued ingredients in skin care products. Has anti-inflammatory properties. Used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans to promote wound healing and for other medicinal uses.

Fish Extract
Rich in nourishing vitamins and proteins. Has moisturizing and water-binding properties.

FitoDHEA®
Derived from Wild Yam (Discorea villosa) extract. Initiates skin's renewal processes, stimulates DNA and RNA regeneration and promotes collagen synthesis, which strengthens skin's connective tissue. Visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

Flavonoids
Wide range of botanically derived substances that act as powerful antioxidants. Increase the elasticity of capillary walls. Reduces their permeability, fragility, and propensity to break. It has anti-inflammatory effects, especially if supplied in conjunction with vitamin C.

Flax seed
Has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Also a source of linolenic acid.
See also: Linolenic acid

Folacin®
Patented form of Folic Acid. A water-soluble vitamin belonging to the B-vitamin complex. It is also known as vitamin B9 or vitamin M. It participates in protein metabolism and plays an important role in the synthesis of DNA and RNA nucleic acids where it contributes to the metabolism of sugars and amino acids. The latest research at the Dr. Irena Eris Center for Science and Research demonstrated that Folacin® is a valuable ingredient, which enhances the growth of skin cell fibroblasts. It increases skin's elasticity and intensively regenerates the epidermis helping prevent premature aging. Using state-of-the- art technology, Dr. Irena Eris Cosmetic Laboratories was able to produce the first stable form of Folic Acid, which allows precise absorption into the skin and more rapid and intensive results.
References: This technology made Dr. Irena Eris Cosmetic Laboratories the first manufacturer in the world to use Folic acid in topically applied skin care products.

FolacyrianE™
Synergistic complex of Folacin™ and Vitamin E, which stimulates cell growth and proliferation and enhance skin regeneration after UV damage.

Folacythenol™
Combination of Folacin™ and D-panthenol; provide anti-wrinkle and soothing properties, helps protect skin cells from the influence of harmful external factors.

Folic acid
A member of the B-vitamin complex.
See also: Folacin®

Fructose
A simple sugar with water-binding properties found in fruits and honey. Softens and moisturizes the skin.

Fruit Extracts
Concentrated fruit juices and acids derived from bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, and lemon that boost cell renewal.

Gamma Linolenic acid
An Essential Fatty Acid (EFA). Organic acid characterized by long Carbon chains. Found naturally in botanical oils.
See also: Linolenic acid

Gentian
Plant extract that has cooling, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory action.

Ginger Root (Zingiber officinalis)
Penetrates easily into the epidermis and stimulates the enzymatic process of fat metabolism. Used for anti-cellulite products.

Ginkgo Biloba
Extract is rich in bioflavonoids and glucosides. Increases elasticity of capillary walls and decreases their permeability. Reduces inflammation and relaxes vessel walls and increases cell oxygenation.

Ginseng (Panax ginseng)
The active ingredients are extracted from the root. It contains glycosides, saponins, B-complex vitamins, vitamin C, iron, magnesium, starch, and lipids. Ginseng possesses strong anti-aging properties. It is used in creams and masks to regenerate a youthful appearance because it stimulates the renewal of the epidermis and restores the physiological balance of the skin.

Glucam®
A modified glucose compound derived from corn. Rehydrates the epidermis. An excellent water-binding agent, it helps retains water in the epidermis. Smoothes and restores lost suppleness and elasticity to dry, tired skin.

Glucomel®
A complex based on honey and glucose derivatives. It improves skin's suppleness, elasticity and softness.

GlucoPro™
A glucose derivative obtained from corn. It is a very strong moisturizer.

Glucose
A sugar derived from starch. Binds moisture in the epidermis and soothes irritations.

Glycerin
One of the oldest raw materials used to moisturize the skin. A humectant that has the ability to bind moisture from the air. It has very strong hygroscopic properties which make it an excellent moisturizer. It visibly improves the elasticity and softness of the epidermis. Glycerin penetrates to the deeper horny layers of the epidermis and remains there, 'retaining' water for about 24 hours.

Glycine
An amino acid that comprises 30% of the collagen molecule.

Glycolic Acid
A natural occurring acid that belongs to the group know as Alpha Hydroxy Acids (A.H.A.'s). They are found in various fruits and foods. Glycolic acid is found in sugar cane and is the most effective A.H.A. currently being used in skin care. Its molecules are small enough to penetrate deep enough into the skin to produce visible, often dramatic improvements in skin's appearance. There is evidence that glycolic acid stimulates collagen synthesis, increases epidermal volume and neutralizes free-radicals.

Glycoproteins
Skin conditioners and moisturizers derived from carbohydrates and proteins. They are found naturally in the intercellular layers of the skin. They strengthen the bonds between collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis.

Glycosaminoglycan
Also known as mucopolysaccharides. Complex proteins that are essential components of skin tissue. Examples include hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate.

Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica)
Extract contains phytosterols, glycosides, tannins, and essential oils. Heals, soothes irritations and promotes circulation. Inhibits hyperkeratinization associated with extremely dry skin. Used in anti-cellulite products because of its ability to improve circulation and remove excess fluid.

Grape Leaf Extract
The active components are extracted from the red leaves of grapevines. The extract is rich in phenol compounds, tannins, anthocyanins, flavones, organic acids, catecholases, fatty acids, fruit acids and others. This diverse composition gives the raw material a screening effect on the vascular system, with astringent, antibacterial and antimycotic properties. Due to the high concentration of polyphenols and the presence of vitamin P, red leaf grapevine helps lessen edema and erythema. The presence of flavone oligomers gives it antihyaluronate properties, enhancing maturity of collagen fibers. The presence of anthocyanin protects blood vessel walls.

Grapefuit oil
Stimulates lipolysis (anti-cellulite action) and regulates sebaceous glands. Its refreshing, energetic scent helps counteract fatigue and depression.

Grapeseed oil (Vitis vinifera)
Cold pressed Grapeseed oil. Contains EFA, mainly linoleic; tocopherols, phytosterols and phospholipids. Vitamin E gives the oil anti free-radical properties. It has a normalizing, anti-inflammatory and soothing action. Inhibits premature aging of the skin. Its rich ingredients strengthen the epidermal barrier, limit TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss), help moisturize and soften the skin, and enhance the absorption of other active ingredients.

Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) Extract
Extract is rich in alkaloids, polyphenols, flavonoids (rutin, quercetin), saponins, carotenoids and many microelements. It possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Also an excellent free-radical scavenger.

Hazelnut oil
Derived from pressing hazelnuts. Quickly and deeply absorbed by the skin. One of the richest vegetable sources of EFA. Strengthens blood vessel walls, accelerates cell regeneration. Recommended for combination and oily skin, acne prone skin or skin with broken capillaries.

Heliophycol E®
A complex of active substances (sunflower extract, vitamin E) that protect the structure of the skin against the aggressive action of free-radicals. Another ingredient in the complex, algae extract, stimulates blood and lymph microcirculation, assists in the removal of accumulated toxins and smoothes out uneven skin.

Hesperidin
Bio-flavonoid derived from bitter orange extract that protects capillary walls from damage. Reduces the number of prostaglandings present in the skin. Has excellent free-radical properties.
See also: Vitamin P (Bioflavonoid)

Hesperidion™
Synergistic complex that contains Hesperidin and Diosmin, flavonoids the noticeably reduce shadows, darks circles and puffiness around the eyes.

Honey (Mel)
Rich in active substances, including simple sugars, enzymes, acids, mineral compounds, amino acids, pigments and essential oils. In cosmetic preparations it demonstrates bacteriostatic, soothing, softening and smoothing action. It also slightly lightens the complexion.

Hops
The extract is rich in plant hormones with nutritive and regenerative properties. Contains bacteriostatic and astringent agents. Soothes, calms irritations and delicately tones the skin. Delays premature aging.

Horse Chestnut
The standardized extract contains Escin, a relatively new discovery in skin care science. Reduces erythema, seals blood vessel walls, especially larger vessels located just beneath the skin's surface.

Horsetail (Equisetum arvense)
Contains flavonoids, organic acids, saponins, phytosterol, vitamin c, and mineral salts (silicon compounds). Increases elasticity and protects the epidermis, connective tissue and mucous membranes. Increases the clotting factor and has bactericidal properties. It makes the skin supple, cleanses wounds, and accelerates wound healing.

Hyaluronic acid
Mucopolysaccharide present in the intercellular connective structure of the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a jelly-like water-binding substance present in interstitial space. The strongest moisturizing agent currently available in skin care science.

HYDRABLOCK™
Complex of ingredients that immediately hydrates the outer layers of the skin. Hydration of the deeper layers is done by strengthening the skin's protective barrier, which limits Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Hydrablock complex instantly minimizes visible fine lines and wrinkles and smooths the skin.

Hydra-Pro™
Patented moisturizing complex that refreshes the skin and restores its energy.

Hydrocomplex ATP™
Complex which is very effective at reducing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and stimulating cell function.
See also: Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate

Hydrocomplex B™
Hydrogenated lipid complex that cleanses and moisturizes skin without damaging the protective lipid layer or drying the skin.

Hydrocomplex D™
Synergistic, highly moisturizing combination of Bamboo, Lotus and Water Lily extracts, which helps regulate cell hydration.

Hydrocomplex N™
Effectively increases skin hydration.

Hydrocomplex SQ™
Complex containing squalene, which helps restore the proper composition of the protective lipid layer and improve skin hydration.
See also: Squalene

Hydrogenated Canola Oil

See also: Canola oil

Hydrogenated Decyl Olive Esters
Plant wax derived from olives. An emollient with excellent moisturizing properties.

Hydrolyzed Casein
An antioxidant derived from milk proteins. Contains amino acids that help stimulate collagen synthesis.

Hydrolyzed Elastin
A form of elastin that is more readily absorbed by the skin than pure elastin.
See also: Elastin

Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein
Has nourishing and hydrating properties.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten
Wheat gluten is a protein complex found in wheat endosperm (essentially the inner core of a grain of wheat). This protein complex is broken into smaller peptides by enzymatic hydrolysis. Wheat gluten moisturizes, conditions and prevents moisture loss. Used as an alternative to animal protein.

HydroprotectolE®
Provides immediate moisturizing effects and hydrates the surface layers of the skin. It also works to hydrate deeper layers by strengthening the protective role of the skin that limits evaporation. Reduces the number of visible wrinkles and significantly improves skin's texture.

HydroVECTOR™
Micronized spheres composed of hyaluronic acid which absorb moisture like microsponges. They penetrate into the epidermis where they gather water molecules and increase their own volume significantly. This serves two purposes. First, they help skin reduce water loss and improve hydration. Second, when swelling with moisture, they push the outler layers of the skin upward, significantly reducing the depth of wrinkles.

Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides

See also: Milk lipids

Ichthyol (Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate)
Glue-like substance that regulates sebaceous glands, has antiseptic properties and softens the epidermis.

Ilex paraguarenesis

See also: Yerba Mate (Ilex parag